WEATHER, SNOW & ROADS
CLIMBING CLUBS & ROUTE INFORMATION
Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier This will be a 13.6 miles rt with about 5100 feet gain (Summit Elevation: 10,047’.) The climb will involve a snow approach and glacier climb to 40 degrees. While the flowers might be blooming in the valley the mountains still thing it's winter this time of year - so plan accordingly. This climb is suitable of first-year (new) climbers who have completed the Chemeketen climb school or equivalent. A pre-climb meeting is scheduled for Tuesday evening April 29th, 6 PM at the Chemekeden to clarify gear, tent & food groups and carpooling arrangements.
Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Kirk Kraschel (Leader Assist)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Sewell
5. Scott Sewell
6. Adam McKee
7. Dan Domrose
8.
Note: There is a short pre-climb meeting on Wednesday, June 25th at 6 pm at the Brick in Salem (105 Liberty St NE Salem, OR 97301 - 503- 375-0959) to review route, weather, gear and other matters.
Driving directions: For those interested in carpooling we will meet at the State Motorpool lot on Saturday Morning. Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. from Sisters, 1.5 miles west on Hwy. 242, then 5.6 miles south on F.S. Rd. 15, then 5.3 miles south on F.S. Rd. 1524. (The Pole Creek trailhead road has been snow-covered and closed at the 4,400 ft level but we are hoping it will open soon with access to the trailhead. )
Route: We will fill out a wilderness permit and depart from Pole Creek Trailhead (5200’). Following the Pole Creek Trail, hike 1.4 miles to the Green Lakes Trail (5840’). Turn South for 1.6 miles to the Chambers Lake trail (5740’), and turn Southwest on the Chambers Lake Trail for approximately 1.8 miles (6280’). Ascend cross country to an area at the toe of the Hayden Glacier where we will camp. With a 5:00 am wake up call we can have breakfast and prepare for our 6:00 am departure. We will then follow the Moraine west to the saddle just below the North ridge, then continuing up the ridge, arriving at the Summit around 10:30 am (10047’). After a half hour photo shoot, we will retraced our steps back to camp where we will relax and casually break camp for a 2:00 pm departure. We expect to arrive back at our cars around 4:30 pm and meet in Sisters for dinner and to hand out Climb certificates before we head home.
Schedule:
Saturday
7:00 AM -Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd. (N. of Mission St.)
10:30 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:10 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:30 AM -Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:30 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
1:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier.
Sunday
5:00 AM -Wake up.
6:00 AM -Start climb.
10:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
11:00 AM -Depart summit.
1:00 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
2:00 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
5:30 PM -Arrive in Sisters for post climb meal.
6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.
9:00 PM -Arrive at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride.
Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.
Required personal equipment: Ten or so essentials (map, compass, GPS if you have one, food, water, first aid, whistle, sunscreen, matches, fire starter, headlamp with extra batteries, emergency blanket or plastic mattress bag, small knife.)
Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip:
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear & group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.
NAVIGATION:The June 27-29 outing has now been changed to Middle Sister.
I will be leading a climb of both South Sister and Broken Top from the Green Lakes area. At this time the road is still covered with significant snow. If it does not open by this date we may need to adjust the trip to a Broken-Top only as we will have a longer approach from the Dutchman flat parking lot. I'll post route options and schedule when this gets clearer but for now you can find generic route information on summitpost at:
Broken Top NW Ridge and Broken Top (General description)
South Sister
Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:
This will involve travel on snow so snowshoes will likely be required. We may also be camping on snow and will experience a wide range of temperatures.
ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and fuel.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles, snowshoes.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Forest parking pass if driving.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro, two shovels for the group,
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.
EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.
Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Leader Assist (TBD)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Sewell
5. Scott Sewell
6. Adam McKee
7. Kirk Kraschel








(Photo from summit Post and Scott Phillips)













his is a tough, 8++-mile round-trip climb to the top of Table Mountain on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from the Bonneville Hot Springs resort. We departed took a Loop trail 




Directions: From Salem take I5 to 205 North to I-84 east and exit at Cascade Locks. Cross the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods ($1 toll). Turn left onto Highway 14, drive 3 miles west to Hot Springs Way and turn right. Turn right at the stop sign onto East Cascade Drive and follow this for 1/2 mile to the Resort.
THIS TRIP IS CANCELLED TODAY (3/17). AFTER A CALL TO THE RANGER IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE CONDITIONS WILL BE TOO SOFT FOR AN APPROACH OF THIS DISTANCE. I'VE SET A CONDITIONING HIKE FOR TABLE MOUNTAIN ON SATURDAY, MARCH 22 AS AN ALTERNATE.
Easter sunrise service on the summit of South Sister? With the road to Mt St Helens under snow I've schedule a South Sister climb for the March 22-23 weekend. (Thank you to Keith Hill for being the leader assist on this.) I'll monitor the weather and make a go or no-go call no later than Thursday evening. I'll be checking in with everyone by phone on Tuesday evening, March 18th to see where we are at with carpooling and tent/stove sharing.
Climbers:
Hiking trail map from Sullivans "100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades (Paperback)"



Our planned Route: Our climb will start at Timberline Lodge and after a one mile hike, the first rest break will be at Silcox Hut (7,000’). After another mile and reaching the top of Palmer ski lift (8,600’) we will take another break. From there we head to Illumination Saddle (9,300’) and rope up. We will descend onto the Reid glacier and traverse to the bottom of the Leuthold where we might start to get some ice fall from the Leuthold. Without taking a break there we will head up the coulior through the Hourglass and to the Queens Chair (10,500’). Here we will take a deservedly longer break and then continue up to the ridge and on to the summit (11,239’). We will descend the South side, probably the Old Chute.
Smith Rock February 17 & 18, 2008. Matt Niemeyer working "Float Like a Butterfly" 5.10b and "Low Blow" 5.10b and "Sting like a Bee" 5.10b/c. Matt also completed "Rope de dope cra
ck" 5.8 and "How Low
can you go" 5.6. Mike lead "How Low.." and attempted a lead of an unnamed route on the Smith rock group.
Roof of Mazama lodge showing recent snow loading (exterior doors were out of square due to weight on structure.)