On August 19, 2012 I'll be leading a Chemeketan club climb of Mt Washington via the North Ridge route. This is a relatively easy rock climb but requires climbers to be in good
physical shape and comfortable doing rappels with exposure, climbing on a fixed
line and using a prussik. Its a long (12 hr car-to-car) but fun day.
Roster: (
Note that inclusion on the roster is not a guaranteed spot on this climb. Climbers must demonstrate prior to the climb that they are in good physical condition for an alpine climb and have the requisite skills and equipment.)
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Mason Smith
Seth Lucas
Bryan Brenneman
Brett Milliken
Alternates
Jason Kabbes
Bhavani Krishnan
Miranda Yarbrough
Carl Shephard
Guy Rodrique
Mark Olson
Justin Clark
Climb Schedule:
6:30am, We will start by hiking south on the PCT
for 3.5 mi. to a climbers cairn marking the climbers trail.
7:30am, Turning
east we will head toward the north ridge of Washington. following the contour
onto the north ridge
11:00am, We will continue along the last edge of the
ridge until turning west to descend around the final pinnacles that lead up to a
loose gully and saddle
12:30pm - Here we will don our harnesses and helmets as
the next 75 ft. of climbing to the top of the nose is the most difficult on the
route
2:00pm- from here we move on to the left leaning chimney where some
easy face climbing leads to the top of the nose (Class 4/easy 5) above the nose
its unexposed scrambling to a short gully(grade 1)
3:00pm - Summit shots,
high fives. Three rappels back down to the notch. hydrate and pack up for the scramble/hike back out the same way we came in.
7:30pm back to the trail head. We may stop in Gates for dinner.
Current
Mt Washington area weather
Last minute fires to worry about? A good
resource is the
Inci-web website
to see if there are any fires in our climbing area.
Approach
(From Steve Doughtery's Website): Follo

w an unmarked trail along the lake for two or three
minutes, to a junction with a second trail called the Patjens Lake Trail.
Continue around Big Lake until the trail leaves the shoreline. At an obvious
junction, turn left (east). (Continuing straight will lead away from Mt.
Washington to Patjens Lake.) Head east for about five minutes. Several spur
trails will join the trail from the west, but continue east until the trail
splits. Take the right fork for two or three minutes to a clearing with a pile
of dead logs on its south side. (The left fork continues around the east side of
Big Lake). Turn right (south) in the clearing and follow a wide trail for five
minutes to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Follow the PCT south
for 30 minutes (or about one hour from the road head), to a climbers' trail
which goes uphill to the east. The climbers' trail is usually marked by a cairn
and is just after a large rock on the left side of the trail. If you reach
Coldwater Spring, the only year-round water source on this section of the PCT,
you have missed the climbers' trail and hiked about 10 minutes too far. About
150 feet after leaving the PCT, the climbers' trail splits. The right fork can
be used for gaining the west ridge or routes on the south face. Follow the left
fork until it breaks out of the timber onto the north ridge proper. Drop onto
the east face. Continue up the ridge for routes on the north and west faces. As
you approach the summit pinnacle, stay on top of the ridge as long as possible.
Skirt several towers to the west until you reach the north wall of the summit
pinnacle. Move up a short loose gully to a notch just below the northeast side
of the mountain. Move right (west) 30 feet and scramble up to a fractured ramp.
(I consider there to be two ramps ... take the second.) Climb the ramp up and
left 35 feet to the base of a rotten chimney. (Start of chimney is slightly
overhung) Climb the chimney and move left, then up, to a ledge with a large
block. The block usually contains one or more rappel slings for the descent.
About 250 feet of scrambling leads to a second chimney. From the top of the
chimney, scramble 100 feet to the summit.
Emergency Info:Leader is carrying a cell phone 503-910-9726
and a SPOT rescue beacon. I'll be sending out OK messages during the climb and
can send out a 911 if we run into trouble (or come across another party that
needs help.)
Willamette
National Forest Contact Information 57600 McKenzie Hwy McKenzie Bridge, OR
97413 (541) 822-3381. Linn County Sheriff: 541-967-3950. Detroit Ranger
District: 503-854-3366
Equipment:
See
this link for equipment lists #1 (10 essentials) and #6 (One-day technical rock
climb) Please be sure to have a prussik ready and a piece of personal pro
(sling girth-hitched on your harness with a biner on the end) ready to go. Carrying a separate pair of rock
shoes for the summit pitches is optional.
See route details and GPS from my previous Mt Washington climbs at http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Washington
See my July 18th Mt Washinton climb for the full Prospectus
SPOT Waypoints from our August 22nd 2009
climb:
-Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8811 Nearest Location:not
known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 19:57:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8811&ll=44.3776,-121.8811&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3508
Longitude:-121.8654 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:08/22/2009 18:53:03 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3508,-121.8654&ll=44.3508,-121.8654&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3434
Longitude:-121.8447 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:08/22/2009 18:11:57 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3434,-121.8447&ll=44.3434,-121.8447&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3363
Longitude:-121.838 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009
17:17:43 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3363,-121.838&ll=44.3363,-121.838&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3333
Longitude:-121.8382 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:08/22/2009 16:57:00 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3333,-121.8382&ll=44.3333,-121.8382&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3392
Longitude:-121.84 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009
10:08:07 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3392,-121.84&ll=44.3392,-121.84&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8807 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not
known Time:08/22/2009 07:09:25 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8807&ll=44.3776,-121.8807&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1