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Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier June 28-29, 2008

Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier This will be a 13.6 miles rt with about 5100 feet gain (Summit Elevation: 10,047’.) The climb will involve a snow approach and glacier climb to 40 degrees. While the flowers might be blooming in the valley the mountains still thing it's winter this time of year - so plan accordingly. This climb is suitable of first-year (new) climbers who have completed the Chemeketen climb school or equivalent. A pre-climb meeting is scheduled for Tuesday evening April 29th, 6 PM at the Chemekeden to clarify gear, tent & food groups and carpooling arrangements.





Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Kirk Kraschel (Leader Assist)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Sewell
5. Scott Sewell
6. Adam McKee
7. Dan Domrose
8.

Note: There is a short pre-climb meeting on Wednesday, June 25th at 6 pm at the Brick in Salem (105 Liberty St NE Salem, OR 97301 - 503- 375-0959‎) to review route, weather, gear and other matters.

Driving directions: For those interested in carpooling we will meet at the State Motorpool lot on Saturday Morning. Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. from Sisters, 1.5 miles west on Hwy. 242, then 5.6 miles south on F.S. Rd. 15, then 5.3 miles south on F.S. Rd. 1524. (The Pole Creek trailhead road has been snow-covered and closed at the 4,400 ft level but we are hoping it will open soon with access to the trailhead. )

Route: We will fill out a wilderness permit and depart from Pole Creek Trailhead (5200’). Following the Pole Creek Trail, hike 1.4 miles to the Green Lakes Trail (5840’). Turn South for 1.6 miles to the Chambers Lake trail (5740’), and turn Southwest on the Chambers Lake Trail for approximately 1.8 miles (6280’). Ascend cross country to an area at the toe of the Hayden Glacier where we will camp. With a 5:00 am wake up call we can have breakfast and prepare for our 6:00 am departure. We will then follow the Moraine west to the saddle just below the North ridge, then continuing up the ridge, arriving at the Summit around 10:30 am (10047’). After a half hour photo shoot, we will retraced our steps back to camp where we will relax and casually break camp for a 2:00 pm departure. We expect to arrive back at our cars around 4:30 pm and meet in Sisters for dinner and to hand out Climb certificates before we head home.

Schedule:
Saturday
7:00 AM -Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd. (N. of Mission St.)
10:30 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:10 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:30 AM -Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:30 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
1:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier.

Sunday
5:00 AM -Wake up.
6:00 AM -Start climb.
10:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
11:00 AM -Depart summit.
1:00 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
2:00 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
5:30 PM -Arrive in Sisters for post climb meal.
6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.
9:00 PM -Arrive at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride.

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment: Ten or so essentials (map, compass, GPS if you have one, food, water, first aid, whistle, sunscreen, matches, fire starter, headlamp with extra batteries, emergency blanket or plastic mattress bag, small knife.)

  1. Glacier glasses or wrap around sun glasses
  2. 2 liters water
  3. Food – one breakfast, one dinner, two lunches (easy to eat)
  4. high carbohydrate snacks (that are easy to access and eat with gloves on)
  5. Stove, fuel and cookset, with a little extra fuel should we need to melt water - stove to be shared with 2-3 others.
  6. Waterproof jacket
  7. waterproof/resistant shell pants
  8. Long underwear or tights for under your pants
  9. Pants (no cotton)
  10. extra socks
  11. Gloves and mittens (over-mitts are also nice if you have them)
  12. wool or fleece cap and balaclava
  13. Sit Pad (optional)
  14. Trekking Poles (recommended)
  15. Snowshoes
  16. 4 Season Tent/Snow anchors
  17. Snow Shovel (one per tent)
  18. Sleeping pad (Full length)
  19. Sleeping bag rated 20 degrees or below
  20. Warm, insulated waterproof boots or plastic boots
  21. Crampons that fit your boots (that you have practiced fitting to your boot)
  22. Down booties (optional)
  23. Gaiters
  24. Ice Axe
  25. Helmet
  26. Sun screen
  27. personal first aid kit & personal medications

Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip:

  1. Ropes
  2. Pickets
  3. One bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day.
  4. Radios (FMS channel 10-5)

Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear & group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.

NAVIGATION:
Here are links to route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach.

GPS Waypoints (UTM NAD27 Conus)
001 Trailhead, N44 11.263 W121 41.991, 5297 ft
002, N44 10.950 W121 42.244, 5528 ft
Jct, N44 10.288 W121 42.463, 5861 ft
003, N44 09.800 W121 42.348, 5707 ft
004, N44 09.364 W121 43.296, 5988 ft
005, N44 09.355 W121 43.453, 6079 ft
006, N44 09.353 W121 43.911, 6298 ft
007, N44 09.292 W121 44.559, 6635 ft
008, N44 09.177 W121 44.718, 6736 ft
009, N44 09.043 W121 44.719, 6763 ft
Camp, N44 09.041 W121 44.712, 6780 ft
010, N44 09.077 W121 45.423, 7243 ft
011, N44 09.078 W121 45.423, 7246 ft
012, N44 09.078 W121 45.422, 7245 ft
013, N44 09.164 W121 46.121, 8137 ft
014, N44 09.232 W121 46.867, 9027 ft
015, N44 09.021 W121 46.974, 9736 ft
016, N44 08.938 W121 46.964, 10010 ft
017 Summit, N44 09.340 W121 44.161, 10,047

For pictures of our 2007 climb of middle sister see http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2007/05/middle-sister-via-hayden-glacier-may.html

South Sister - Broken Top Combo

The June 27-29 outing has now been changed to Middle Sister.

I will be leading a climb of both South Sister and Broken Top from the Green Lakes area. At this time the road is still covered with significant snow. If it does not open by this date we may need to adjust the trip to a Broken-Top only as we will have a longer approach from the Dutchman flat parking lot. I'll post route options and schedule when this gets clearer but for now you can find generic route information on summitpost at:

Broken Top NW Ridge and Broken Top (General description)
South Sister

Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:
This will involve travel on snow so snowshoes will likely be required. We may also be camping on snow and will experience a wide range of temperatures.
ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and fuel.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles, snowshoes.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Forest parking pass if driving.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro, two shovels for the group,

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.

Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Leader Assist (TBD)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Sewell
5. Scott Sewell
6. Adam McKee
7. Kirk Kraschel

Intro to Smith Rock - April 2008











Broken Top 9 O'clock Couloir on May 3-4










Scott Phillips led and I assisted on a climb of the Broken Top 9 O'clock Couloir on May 3-4 as an alternative to the Middle Sister climb I had scheduled for that date.



(Photo from summit Post and Scott Phillips)

From Scott's prospectus:
PEAK: Broken Top ELEVATION: 9,175 ft
ROUTE: 9 O’Clock Coulier

RATING: S-2
DATE: Saturday-Sunday, May 3-4, 2008 LEADER: Scott Phillips

DESCRIPTION
“Broken Top sits adjacent to or is actually part of the Three Sisters complex in central Oregon. It's sharp features make it stand apart from the more traditional shaped Sisters. Broken Top is a very old volcano whose horseshoe shape is the result of an implosion and the after effect of the collapsing summit. There are only two small glaciers left on Broken Top, the Bend Glacier on the north side and the Crook Glacier within the crater.The Northwest ridge route is the easiest and can be done in a day from the Greenlakes trailhead without any difficulty. Depending on specific route selection the hardest climbing involved is fourth to easy fifth class.”
- from Summitpost.com

Day 1, Saturday: 8:00 AM:
The climb will start by hiking (snowshoes or cross country skis) north from the Dutchman Flat Snow Park (6,350 ft) adjacent from Mt Bachelor located along the Cascade Lakes Highway west of Bend. We will follow snow mobile and ski trails for the most part past Todd Lake and directly towards the crater of Broken Top. Most of the elevation gain will be in the last mile and a half of the approach when we gain 1300 ft. Most of the approach is well marked except for some cross country parts where map and compass may be needed for navigation through wooded areas. The last of the approach is mostly open snow fields and is easily navigated by line of site with Broken Top. Camp site will be in the crater on the east side where there is some more levels areas to set up tents (8,100 ft). Total approach distance is 6.5 miles and will take about 7 hours. This will give us plenty of time to set up tents, eat and rehydrate for the full day ahead of us the next day.

Day 2, Sunday: 3:00 AM ???
We will awake and plan to be on the route by 4:00 AM ???. We will start with crampons and be roped up since the route starts just outside of the camp site. The first challenge is the 9 O’Clock Coulier. Be prepared for 50-55 degree slopes in the coulier which will be protected with pickets. A belay will be set up at the top by the leader when he tops out. A short rest will give us time to view the Sisters and review the intended route. We will then drop down about 200 ft on the west side in a northwest direction around some out croppings of rock and ice then turn to the northeast and gain elevation until we are the base of the rock formation at the top of the mountain. We’ll traverse along the base of the formation until we met up with the NW ridge. From there we will climb the normal route that is taken in the summer time when sane people climb it. Descent will be via the climb route. After the climb we will pack up camp and hike out to Dutchman Flat Snow Park. The hike out will take about 4 hours. Summit certificates will be awarded at the trailhead after the climb.

MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS
We will meet at the state motor pool at 4:00 AM Saturday morning and head out from there. We will stop for breakfast along the way, either fast food or sit down, if time allows. I have a van that all the gear will fit into and ask that a $23 donation be slipped to the driver for expenses. Driving duties can be shared. If some one has a better vehicle that will be considered.
REFERENCE/MAPS
· Thomas, Jeff Oregon High – A Climbing Guide, (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp 111-117.
· Smoot, Jeff, Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (A Falcon Guide, 1993), pp 149-153.
· Anderson, Shea, Snowshoe Routes Oregon, (The Mountaineers Books, 2001), pp 126-129.

Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65


EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS
For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:
911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655.
Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING


ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and a fuel canister for each person.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (preferably double plastic), crampons, two shovels for the group, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Snow park permit.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro.

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

COMMENTS
The climb is limited to 4 participants including the leader. Please let me know as soon as possible if you cannot come on the climb. Be prepared for cold and hot conditions on the entire trip since the weather can change in a short time. Prior to the climb, if the weather is questionable, Scott will make my decision on whether to go or not on Thursday or Friday night at the latest. If you have any questions, please give Scott Phillips a call or send an e-mail. I am shooting for a 2 day climb window if we push it. Please don’t count out adding an extra day to finish the climb if the scheduling changes.

Satellite waypoints from our trip:
Latitude:44.0788 Longitude:-121.6958 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 14:58:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0788,-121.6958&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.073 Longitude:-121.6923 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 13:30:33 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.073,-121.6923&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0634 Longitude:-121.6862 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 12:19:45 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0634,-121.6862&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0507 Longitude:-121.6829 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 11:17:50 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0507,-121.6829&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0388 Longitude:-121.6714 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 10:38:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0388,-121.6714&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:43.9999 Longitude:-121.6635 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 08:16:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43.9999,-121.6635&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


THE TEAM
Leader: 1. Scott Phillips 503-931-0751 climbingscott@comcast.net
2. Kerry Ketcham kerryjay@live.com


4. Mike Niemeyer 503-910-9726 mailto:mwniemeyer@verizon.net

Mt Thielsen, October 4-5, 2008




On October 4th & 5th 2008 I will be leading a late-season climb of Mt Thielsen with keith Hill as Leader-assist. We will be driving down on saturday and staying at diamond Lake campground

Diamond Lake Campground: Located on Forest road 4795, on east shore of Diamond Lake. 240 campsites (trailer & tent units), tables, fireplaces, running water, flush toilets, showers. Reservations available for sites in loops A-F. Daily fees.

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150419/mount-thielsen.html

more details to follow....

Mount Hamilton Spring 2008 Conditioning Hike



On Saturday, April 19 Keith Hill led a conditining hike up Mount Hamilton . Hikers include: Sue Nelson, Lisa Conrad, Jeff howell, Katie Niemeyer and Mike Niemeyer. We met at the trailhead at 8:30 am under snowy skies. The trail had a sprinkling of snow and boyscouts at the upper elevations. Occassional breaks in the clouds offer great views of a snow covered gorge.




(Topo from Portland Hikers website.)

satellite waypoints:


ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.6627 Longitude:-122.0182 Nearest Location: North Bonneville, United States Distance: 5 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 11:59:46 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6627,-122.0182&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.659 Longitude:-122.0116 Nearest Location: North Bonneville, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 11:26:57 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.659,-122.0116&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.6326 Longitude:-122.0199 Nearest Location: Warrendale, United States Distance: 2 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 08:46:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6326,-122.0199&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

"The Elevator" Gorge Hike





































"The elevator" is a close to portland conditioning hike with some challenging trail conditions and route-finding. Tim & Robyn smith, Keith Hill and Mike Niemeyer did this on April 5, 2008 under rainy skies. The upper portions were snow covered and we were pretty soaked by the time we got back to the car. Our route was a 12 mile or so loop the had us coming back down multnomah creek on the return leg.

OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5687 Longitude:-122.0916 Nearest Location: Saint Cloud, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:04/05/2008 16:05:00 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5687,-122.0916&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5795 Longitude:-122.1085 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:04/05/2008 09:42:14 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5795,-122.1085&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5787 Longitude:-122.1181 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:04/05/2008 09:08:26 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5787,-122.1181&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Table Mountain March 22


This is a tough, 8++-mile round-trip climb to the top of Table Mountain on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from the Bonneville Hot Springs resort. We departed took a Loop trail (Note that Washington Dept Natural resources has re-routed the upper portion of the trail) via a number of confusing road and trail interscetions to a very windy/exposed ridge. The push up the snow covered upper slope was made more challenging by 50 mph + winds that occassionally knocked us down. Most of the hiking is through the trees, but the summit of Table Mountain has spectacular views. Hikers: Keith Hill, Mike Niemeyer, Matt & Rebecca Tryon, Rick Slezak, Jeff Howell. The Hot springs is a nice facility , you can get a great hamburger meal ($9.95) in the pub and a soak in the hot springs ($15. )












Gear: Bring warm clothes, usual 10 essentials and snowshoes and treking poles.

Directions: From Salem take I5 to 205 North to I-84 east and exit at Cascade Locks. Cross the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods ($1 toll). Turn left onto Highway 14, drive 3 miles west to Hot Springs Way and turn right. Turn right at the stop sign onto East Cascade Drive and follow this for 1/2 mile to the Resort.

Reference:
http://portlandhikersfieldguide.org/wiki/Table_Mountain_from_Bonneville_Hike

Real Time Satellite data:

Latitude:45.6845 Longitude:-121.9855 Nearest Location: Moffetts Hot Springs, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:03/22/2008 22:13:59 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6845,-121.9855&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6884 Longitude:-121.986 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 21:58:53 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6884,-121.986&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6925 Longitude:-121.983 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 20:55:14 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6925,-121.983&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.688 Longitude:-121.9797 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 19:49:48 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.688,-121.9797&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:45.6855 Longitude:-121.9789 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 19:20:35 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6855,-121.9789&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6561 Longitude:-121.9589 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 16:15:40 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6561,-121.9589&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

South Sister, March 22-23 Cancelled

THIS TRIP IS CANCELLED TODAY (3/17). AFTER A CALL TO THE RANGER IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE CONDITIONS WILL BE TOO SOFT FOR AN APPROACH OF THIS DISTANCE. I'VE SET A CONDITIONING HIKE FOR TABLE MOUNTAIN ON SATURDAY, MARCH 22 AS AN ALTERNATE.

Easter sunrise service on the summit of South Sister? With the road to Mt St Helens under snow I've schedule a South Sister climb for the March 22-23 weekend. (Thank you to Keith Hill for being the leader assist on this.) I'll monitor the weather and make a go or no-go call no later than Thursday evening. I'll be checking in with everyone by phone on Tuesday evening, March 18th to see where we are at with carpooling and tent/stove sharing.



Climbers:

  1. Mike Niemeyer (leader) 503-910-9726
  2. Keith Hill (leader assist)
  3. Linda Bedard (climb assistant)
  4. Matt Tryon
  5. Rebecca Tryon
  6. Jeff Howell
Schedule & Route: Leave Salem State Motorpool Lot at 7 am Saturday, March 22 and drive to the town Sisters for restroom and transfat infusion at local Bakery. We will park at Dutchman Flat (about 6400 ft) along hwy 46 (near Mt Bachelor about 150 miles and 3 hrs from Salem) and snowshoe/hike the road to just above Moraine lake where we will snow camp at about 6900 ft (or possibly higher depending on conditions.) Sunday we will have an alpine start and head up the South side of S. Sister for the 10,358 ft summit and return to break camp and slog to the cars. We will stop in the town of Sisters for a meal on the way home. This is strenuous winter climb involving a 5,758 ft elevation gain and 22 miles of travel on snow (round trip.)

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment: Ten or so essentials (map, compass, GPS if you have one, food, water, first aid, whistle, sunscreen, matches, fire starter, headlamp with extra batteries, emergency blanket or plastic mattress bag, knife.)


  1. Glacier glasses or wrap around sun glasses
  2. 2 liters water
  3. Food – one breakfast, one dinner, two lunches, snacks
  4. Stove, fuel and cookset (with extra fuel for melting water)
  5. Waterproof jacket and pants
  6. Layered clothing (no cotton), extra socks
  7. Gloves, mittens, over mitts if you have them, wool or fleece cap and balaclava
  8. Sit Pad
  9. Trekking Poles (recommended)
  10. Snowshoes
  11. 4 Season Tent/Snow anchors
  12. Snow Shovel (one per tent)
  13. Sleeping pad (Full length)
  14. Sleeping bag rated 20 degrees or below
  15. Warm, insulated waterproof boots or plastic boots
  16. Crampons that fit your boots (that you have fitted ahead of time)
  17. Gaiters
  18. Ice Axe
  19. Helmet
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. We will be mostly in the Deschutes National Forest within Deschutes County. In case of an accident, call 911, or notify the Deschutes County Sheriff, 541-388-6502 (Search and Rescue). Use this second number if the party is overdue by 24 hours.

Local Emergency Contacts: If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.

Additional Information: Trail Conditions and Winter Conditions









Hiking trail map from Sullivans "100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades (Paperback)"

Mt Hood Leuthold Coulior March 2, 2008


We attempted Mt Hood via Leuthold Coulier but stopped at illumination saddle due to avalanche conditions. We had wild temperature extremes from very cold and windy when we started to short-sleeve shirt weather on the return. Progress was also slowed by having to post-hole through loose snow. Scott broke trail and carried the rope!

Leader: Scott Phillips
Climbers: Mike McHugh; Sue Nelson; Greg Phillips;
Mike Niemeyer






Our planned Route: Our climb will start at Timberline Lodge and after a one mile hike, the first rest break will be at Silcox Hut (7,000’). After another mile and reaching the top of Palmer ski lift (8,600’) we will take another break. From there we head to Illumination Saddle (9,300’) and rope up. We will descend onto the Reid glacier and traverse to the bottom of the Leuthold where we might start to get some ice fall from the Leuthold. Without taking a break there we will head up the coulior through the Hourglass and to the Queens Chair (10,500’). Here we will take a deservedly longer break and then continue up to the ridge and on to the summit (11,239’). We will descend the South side, probably the Old Chute.
Time: 10-12 hours

I will be carrying my SPOT beacon, cell phone and GPS along with the usual gear.

12:00 midnight Leave from State Motor Pool
2:00 am Meet at Rest Area at Government Camp
2:30 am Meet at Climbers Registry
3:00 am Start Climb
10:00 am Summit
10:15 am Depart from Summit
3:00 pm Return to parking lot. Head back to Salem
5:30 pm Arrive in Salem

topo from http://www.matthewweaver.com/mountaineering/mthood0302/climbingroute.html




DATA FROM MY RESCUE BEACON:
-Unit Number: 0-7352032 Latitude: 45.3585 Longitude: -121.7055 Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 15:38:47
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3585,-121.7055&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

-Unit Number: 0-7352032
Latitude: 45.3523
Longitude: -121.7083
Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 14:39:17
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3523,-121.7083&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude: 45.3444
Longitude: -121.7094
Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 13:32:48
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3444,-121.7094&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

-Unit Number: 0-7352032
Latitude: 45.3304
Longitude: -121.7084
Nearest Town from unit Location: Government Camp, United States Distance to the nearest town: 5 km(s) Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 11:43:30
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3304,-121.7084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Smith Rock

Smith Rock February 17 & 18, 2008. Matt Niemeyer working "Float Like a Butterfly" 5.10b and "Low Blow" 5.10b and "Sting like a Bee" 5.10b/c. Matt also completed "Rope de dope crack" 5.8 and "How Low can you go" 5.6. Mike lead "How Low.." and attempted a lead of an unnamed route on the Smith rock group.








Government Camp Snowshoe Feb 10


Roof of Mazama lodge showing recent snow loading (exterior doors were out of square due to weight on structure.)

Mt Hood Workout - January 21, 2008

Scott Kelley and Mike Niemeyer's trip Mt Hood was a bust. At the Timberline parking lot the car was being rocked around and it was very hard to stand up. Mt Hood weather station showed avg wind spead at 6,600ft of 47 and high of 76 mph with air temp of 1 degree at 9 am (thats a wind chill of -34.) We hiked around a bit to test gear and marvel at the futility of trying to function in those conditions. My test of the SPOT satellite device by sending some "check-in" messages to his blog seemed to work fine.

See same-day news video of snow blowing off Mt Hood http://www.katu.com/home/video/13951822.html?video=pop&t=a